Keep the heat gun handy while you do this. Once all wires are cut board will come out. Fit a small side cutter under the board and start cutting the wires. Keep working your way up until you can see the wires underneath that are holding it in place.ĥ. I used a small hook pick and pulled only on the edges of the board. Be careful not to damage components under the board. Once the only one thing holding the board in are the wire terminals, gently pry the board from the top by sliding a long screwdriver underneath and pulling. Remove 4 mounting screw holding the PCB in place.Ībove picture was taken after the fix was done, this is just for reference to see what to desolder in order to pull the board out.Ĥ. Idea is so desolder them, then pull the board up, leaving relays and varistor in the epoxy underneath.ģ. There is a lot of epoxy under the PCB and you wont be able to pull the board up with relays and varistor attached. De-solder 2 relays and a varistor, make sure pins wiggle freely inside the vias (relay pins, varistor pins, double check with a needle nose). its actually pretty easy and it comes off in big chunks once you have it heated up to higher temperature. Scrape the upper layer of epoxy to expose the PCB Its quite easy if you have basic electronics knowledge and know how to solder.ġ. So i decided to give it a go since i had nothing to loose. TrimFix only gives you 4 positions for the gauge, and its over $150 shipped (im from Canada)īut i haven't seen anything about actually fixing the original module. Well there is lots of information about the TrimFix module and/or cheap relay bypass fix.
Nozzle would 'unscrew' in the lowest position and would not come back up without physical help. Unfortunately this disabled the gauge and limit stops were not active. Previous owner ended up cutting all the wires off the module and wiring his cheap relay fix. So i picked up my first seadoo, turned out vts was busted.
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